By Sowon Jessica Moon
Circular metallic tables, orange and yellow circular lights hung low and greeted guests at the entrance of a quaint restaurant in New York City. On the wall facing 32nd street hung a flat screen plasma television which silently played “The O.C.” The right wall was lathered in a pale burnt yellow with small black and white framed photographs of stills from Korean films circumspectly placed about the wall.
The left wall bore no photographs of stills from Korean films, nor was it lathered in paint. It was instead, beige cement blocks piled on top of the other, emitting a sense of simplicity and tradition in a most odd yet pleasing way. The granite floors stared up at the steel vents that hung above each table; there was a captivating peace despite its unusual yet tasteful set up. The message was clear; it was not that of “east meets west,” but tradition meets the present. This was not only blatant in how Chung Moo Ro was set up, but with the guests there as well; the range of ethnicity at the restaurant was unexpected, as it’s not as common in more traditional Korean restaurants.
The ambiance at Chung Moo Ro was convivial yet crowded. The seating area was intimately set, tables were directly adjacent to the other making it difficult for waiters and waitresses to weave through the tables. This was going on as boisterous guests disregarded the noise, instead taking sheer delight in their meals. Ten minutes after waiting, I was seated and anxiously dug into the menu. The menu was filled with variety, including lunch specials, different types of rice mixed with ingredients such as soy sprouts, Kim chi, and squid, appetizers of Korean pancakes, soups, hot pot dishes including traditional dishes like “Haemool Jeongol”, seafood with vegetables in stew, and entrees such as “Samgae Tang,” a boiled chicken in broth with ginseng.
Given most Korean restaurants are known for their barbecue, I opted for the “Galbi Gui,” short ribs marinated with their special house sauce. The barbecue menu also included prime rib, chicken, shrimp, squid, tribe, brisket and rib eye, an impressive list showing full well the restaurants intent to satisfy all taste buds. Alongside the “Galbi Gui,” I ordered the “Tempura Woodon,” fried seafood and vegetables with thick wheat noodles in a hot broth.
As with all traditional Korean restaurants, the side dishes which are served at no extra cost arrived first. These side dishes consisted of Kim Chee, spicy clam shells, lettuce with ginger sauce, radish in a sweet and sour sauce, sprouts with onion crab and cucumbers, and another radish in a light spicy sauce. I gingerly ate my side dishes as I waited for the main course. The ribs arrived raw, and were barbecued at the table.
The smoke from the meat danced under my nose; I was eager to take my first bite. When the meat was finally cooked, I took a bite and was instantly satisfied. The ribs were generously marinated, and though I saw no sign of small bottles of soy sauce and vinegar, the taste of the ribs gave reason as to why no additional sauces were provided; none were needed.
Each bite was more succulent than the next, each bite enhancing the sweet marinade that wove into the meat. I was disappointed to find that though delicious, I was still hungry. At that point I was delighted to have ordered the Tempura Woodon. The seasonings in the simple dish were in perfect unison with the rest of the meal; not much seafood was present but a large fried prawn and some frozen crab cake, regardless it was a phenomenal end to an already impressive meal. Upon receiving my check I was given a complimentary slice of cantaloupe, also served at no extra cost.
Kim Bong Sun, the owner and manager of the restaurant, informed me that it had been a mere five months since Chung Moo had entered the heart of 32nd Street, better known as “Korean Town,” an area abundant in Korean barbecue restaurants, karaoke bars, cafes, and small stores; a little piece of Korea, if you will, in the melting pot city of New York. She also said that all of the nights were busy until 10:30 p.m. The most ordered meals were from the barbecue menu, but her personal favorite is “Kim Chee Jigae.”
Overall this restaurant was different from any other Korean restaurant I have been to in several ways; the ambiance, the guests, the menu itself. So, if you don’t mind you’re personal space being slightly invaded by a stranger, energy and raw meat being cooked in front of you, I would recommend this restaurant without any doubt. Chung Moo engulfs tradition with contemporary society with absolute success.
——————–Chung Moo Ro10 West 32nd St.New York, N.Y.(212) 594-4963——————–
Chung Moo Ro is conveniently located in midtown Manhattan and offers a wide array of foods in its menu including barbecue dishes. (Sowon Moon/The Chronicle)